Checkered Hat Crochet Pattern

I've written my very first crochet pattern.  If you find any errors or have any questions, please let me know right away!

I USED:

Caron Simply Soft in red (A) and black (B)  (This should be obvious, but use whatever colors you want!)

H (5mm) hook

yarn needle

PATTERN NOTES

Okay y’all, this is actually a really easy pattern.  The hat is worked side-to-side instead of top down.  The pattern is modified off of a pattern by Mary Jane Hall in her book Crochet That Fits (which is pretty cool, by the way).  By using shorter stitches at one end of your rows, you end up with basically a trapezoid shape.  By sewing up the side seam and gathering the short end for your crown, you end up with a hat.  There are no increases or decreases.

You can make this hat longer or shorter by altering how many beginning chains you work.  Just remember to alter the size of your color blocks accordingly.  For my gauge, five double crochet and two rows made a block that was approximately square.  If your gauge or yarn is different, or if you just want different sized checks, don’t be afraid to experiment with the pattern to get it right for you.

This pattern assumes that you know how to work a color change.  It’s always done in the last step of the last stitch that you work in the previous color.  I’m not going to tell you when to work the color change in the pattern, but I will tell you what stitches will be in each color.  Since each color block is five stitches long, you will be working color changes at the end of the fifth stitch.

All stitches are worked over the unused color.  This is known as tapestry crochet.  When it’s time to change color, you bring up your unused strand to complete the last step, and then continue with that color, working over the previous yarn.  This technique allows you to work in color patterns without constantly cutting your yarn and having to weave in all those dang ends.  If you don’t quite understand what I mean by this, check out Carol Ventura’s site.

When you turn your work at the end of the odd numbered rows, you have to bring up your unused strand as well and it will show up pretty obviously.  You can cover this up by working an edging, or you can do what I did and designate the side that these show up on as the wrong side, thus hiding them inside the hat.  Or you could do both.

All stitches are worked in back loop only.  This gives the hat some stretch, as well as creating a bit of a ribbed texture.

All pattern terminology is in American English.

ABBREVIATIONS

ch      chain

st       stitch

sl st   slip stitch

sc      single crochet

hdc    half double crochet

dc      double crochet

PATTERN

with A, ch 31

ROW 1:  WITH A- sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, hdc in next ch, WITH B- dc in next 5 ch, WITH A- dc in next 5 ch, WITH B- dc in next 5 ch, WITH A- dc in next 5 ch, WITH B- dc in last five ch, ch 3, turn (ch 3 counts as first dc of next row)   (30 st)

ROW 2:  WITH B- skip first dc, dc in next 4 st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B- dc in next 5 st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B- dc in next 5 st, WITH A- hdc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sl st in next st, WITH B- ch 1, turn (30 st)

ROW 3:  WITH B, sl st in first st, sc in next 3 st, hdc in next st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B- dc in next 5 st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B, dc in next 5 st, WITH A- dc in last 5 st, ch 3, turn (30 st)

ROW 4:  WITH A, skip first st, dc in next 4 st, WITH B- dc in next 5 st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B- dc in next 5 st, WITH A- dc in next 5 st, WITH B- hdc in next st, sc in next 3 st, sl st in next st, WITH A- ch 1, turn (30 st)

By now, the pattern should be pretty obvious.  Continue in this fashion until the hat is long enough to wrap comfortably around your head (or the head of whoever it’s for).  For me, this took 36 rows.  Remember, each stitch type is worked into the same stitch type of the previous row: for example, each hdc is worked into the hdc of the previous row, each sc in the sc of the previous row, etc. 

Make sure you end on the pair of rows with the alternate color sequence of the one you started with (so since you started A, B, A, B, A, B, end with B, A, B, A, B, A).  Cut both yarns and bind off.

FINISHING

With the wrong side facing out and using a strand of color A and your yarn needle, whip stitch the side seam (side seam=the bottom of your very first row and the top of your last row).  It you sew through both loops of one row and only one loop of the other row, you can continue the ribbed pattern of the hat.  Refer to your own work to figure out which loops to sew, or you can just stitch through both loops of each row if you want.

Using a strand of either color and your yarn needle, weave through the top of the hat (your short side) to gather and pull tight to close the hole.

SOME ADDITIONAL IDEAS

What with the color changing and the gathering, the very top of my hat around the hole is just a little messy looking.  If you want, you can easily cover this up by attaching a pompom.

I didn’t add an edging, but you might want to.  You can do it in one color, both colors working together, or even the alternating checkered pattern.  It’s up to you.

You might also consider experimenting with ear flaps.  You can make them separately and sew them on, or you can work them straight onto the hat (top down, so to speak).

If you don’t like the ribbed pattern, try working the stitches in both loops, like normal.  I haven’t tried this myself, so I don’t know how it will turn out.  If you do it, let me know!

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And there you have it.  My first pattern.  If you find any mistakes or typos, or if you have any questions, please let me know right away!  Also, I’d love to see pictures of anything you make off this pattern.  ^_^